Dadanawa Ranch: Cattle, Horses, Sleep Outs and Round Ups

Cattle, Horses, Sleep Outs and Round Ups

3700 cattle, 180 horses give or take a few spread over 5000 square kilometers.  So horses and very important to find the cattle!  Horses are smaller than ours.  In the book written about the early history of the Dadanawa Ranch, a story is told of someone purchasing a large number of saddles in North America for the Ranch.  When the saddles arrived, they were much too large for the horses so could not be used. 

The first step in planning for a roundup of cattle is to round up some horses!  Early on we saw the vaqueros ‘breaking in’ a horse in the field, same way we would do at home except that the rider will be on the horse the next day for the round up! The picture is breaking in the horse (you probably can’t see the lead line). 

Vaqueros Breaking a Horse

Vaquero Joy Prepares to Mount Her Horse

 Horses are not shoed.  They seem to get along well fending for themselves on the sparse, dry savannah grasses.  Forced dieting!  So the day is set for the vaqueros to go out, the cook (Joy) prepares for cookout, the saddles are readied complete with lassoes.  They used to take saddle bags for their gear but now the RDC tractor loads the campout gear and travels to the spot where the trails split to different areas where the cattle are grazing. Joy is also a vaquero.  I was able to catch her just before she mounted her saddled horse heading out.  She said the ride back with the cattle once the cattle were rounded up would be at least 15 miles and they would likely arrive around lunch time the next day.  Joy, like other vaqueros, wears flip flops or goes barefoot for riding! 

 

 

 

Vaqueros and Riding Guests Prepare To Go On Round Up

Joy Prepares Cook Up In A Large Pot On An Open Fire for the Vaqueros

Horses and Vaqueros Often Camp Over Here

In wet season, creeks and rivers overflow their banks and the whole scene changes.  Dadanawa Ranch’s main area becomes an island.  Boats have to be used to cross the rivers and creeks.  The only way to get to the ranch is to be met on the other side!   What I can’t get over is the cattle take care of themselves when the rains come but the horses don’t have enough horse sense to get to high ground and have to be rescued or they drown!

Below is a photo of a painting in the store of cattle crossing the river with the vaqueros driving them to cross the river.  What a sight it must be.

Painting of Cattle Crossing The River.

 

These cattle basically survive on their own eating only grass with little to no intervention.  Amazing really.  They know where to find water, even in this very dry time and from there they identify the best (which at best is not good) grazing. 

Dry Season

 But, when missing from the inventory, it could be one of a number of reasons:  rustling, jaguar kill or wild in the bush (may appear in future), natural mortality, stolen, or otherwise.  One story:  the owner of a ranch adjacent to land that is part of the Dadanawa Ranch near Lethem died; when his daughter came to take over the operation of the ranch, all the cattle had been stolen!  The person telling the story pointed out that the border to Brazil is very close.

So, the next day around 11 we went with the RDC truck to see if we could see the cattle on the trail with the horses driving them in.   Allan was particularly interested to see the vaqueros in action.  We headed out to the area (anywhere in a two plus mile range) at an undefined time.  We looked for tracks, waited about an hour.   No luck so back to the ranch for lunch.  Precisely, as predicted, we could see them in the distance (about 100 of them) stirring up a good dust on the way to the corral.  We used the zoom lense on the camera and could see the vaqueros circling along-side and behind.  The cattle would now rest overnight in the corral and be worked with the next day.



Vaqueros Bring Cattle In To The Corral On Horseback



Oswald Ready To Record Number

Vaquero Closes The Squeeze To Hold Animal Back

Calves Are Separated Out To Ear Tag and Tattoo Older Ones

Joy Watches As Animal Comes Through For Sorting

In the corral, they aim to separate the calves for tattooing (ear), branding when they are old enough (their hide has to be good and thick), castrating bulls (ouch) and recording ID numbers to verify inventory. 

They usually work with the cattle later afternoon when it is a bit cooler (probably 35 instead of 40!).  They need lots of people.  Vaqueros to bring the cattle through the gate, a person to record the ID number of the animal and call as to which pen the animal will be directed into, a person to work the gate to hold the animal for identification (a particular tricky job as these animals have big horns and a mind of their own).    When the call is made and the gate is opened, the three people on the gates for the different pens have to be swift to open and close the right gates!  My goodness!  We were under the shade of a big tree in a specially made box right in the middle of it all.  Incredible action!

There is a lot of research on stress management for cattle.  We brought several excellent videos which Allan showed to the vaqueros, hoping to change the ‘hooping, hollering and scare tactics’ used to handle the cattle now into a low stress, easy handling situation.  The more the cattle are handled, the more they relax.  I will post a short video to bring this all to reality. 

Branding Irons Ready To Heat In The Fire



Preparing To Brand An Older Calf

Branding A Calf

Choosing A Young Bull To Be Castrated
 

These Are A Delicacy In Guyana! 

 

The vaqueros are very much looking forward to competing in the annual Easter rodeo at Lethem.  Prize money is good (over $100 US for each category).  The Dadanawa cattle will be driven to Lethem (that drive will take two plus days).  I understand after all of that the bulls that go will end up at the Lethem abattoir.   The vaqueros were very anxious to put on a little rodeo for us.  Seeing someone threaten their life on the back of a belted bucking bull will never be my entertainment choice!  Those who participate in this are young males, healthy and strong but their entire lives could be altered in one ride.

       

Presentation of Burdizzos

When one retires from beef farming, castration and tattooing equipment have little use.  So, despite the weight of the burdizzos, all was cleaned and shined and packed in Allan’s luggage.  Imagine the humor when our suitcases were lost and in Barbados we had to fill out a form listing any unusual ‘items’ in our luggage!   Guess ‘nut crackers’ would not be the term to fit!  At 7 pounds, they accounted for a good part of our overweight luggage.



Yolanda and Olwald Receiving The Burdizzos from Allan

Following the mini rodeo and corral work, Allan presented the tattooing equipment and burdizzos to the Ranch.  Ranch Foreman, Oswald worked with a veterinarian in the Rupunini travelling from farm to farm and knows burdizzos well.  Oswald and Yolanda are practicing!  Right up until this presentation, all castrations were done using a knife!  A delicacy among the Amerindians they say! Oswald thanked Allan again and again.

Visit Dadanawa Ranch on utube:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKEdBKwqD1M
 

Halifax to Georgetown to Lethem to Dadanawa Ranch

 

Once again we are setting out on a volunteer assignment.  Officially it  is Allan's assignment with CESO to do a Business Plan for the Dadanawa Ranch in southern part of Guyana, South America. 

Our trip Halifax to Georgetown was supposed to be much simpler than it turned out to be.  We arrived three hours early on Jan 31st, 2015 at the Halifax airport.   We sat in Halifax not knowing when we would be leaving, but it became apparent that we were not going to make our connection in Toronto to Port of Spain and on to Guyana.  This would have been an overnight flight.  Instead, it became two nights; one short one (4 hours in the Hilton in Toronto courtesy Air Canada), then one is the Airport Inn, Port of Spain.  In Barbados we filled in a claim for four missing bags, our luggage!  We left Sat, arrived late Monday without luggage in Georgetown.  Tuesday am, after meeting with the Board we had to make a decision, what to do without luggage.  We decided to proceed (ie fly to Lethem without luggage) so we needed to purchase some essentials. 

Meanwhile, our host Yolanda Vasconcellos, Business Development Manager for the ranch along with the CESO people in Toronto and Georgetown were doing their best to locate our luggage.  Did it leave Toronto?  (We saw it being loaded in Halifax covered with snow so it sat outside for the three hours while we waited for the plane to come in from Toronto).   Wednesday morning we checked out of the hotel and went to the office with a list of last minute things to buy because of our luggage situation.  Yolanda was on the phone.  She said, ‘You had better sit down’.  The luggage is on its way to your hotel!   Here we were just an hour away from having to go to the Olge airport to fly to Lethem when we find out suitcases are on their way.  So Allan went to the hotel to meet the suitcases, we picked up a take out lunch and off we went.  I have never been so happy to see suitcases! 

From Georgetown, one must have a booking confirmed well in advance on the 18 seater plane flying to Lethem.  We needed to be at the airport well ahead to have our luggage weighed and approved for the flight.  We as people had to be weighed in showing how important weight is for the small airplane!  Age seemed to command some respect because, when I was going through security check, the asked me how old I was.  When I told them, they waved me on without removing my big boots or taking my computer out of the bag. 

The 18 seater airplane was an experience.  Couldn’t stand up, had to bend forward to maneuver down the narrow aisle holding hand luggage up!  Basically all but computers were checked and under us in the plane’s little belly!  Next time the computer will be checked-you can't bend over with a pack that rides on the ceiling!  Everything about the flight was fascinating.  Takeoff, up to 11000 feet gradually through the billowy clouds.  Allan and I sat right behind the pilot watching the dial.  The 90 minute flight allowed us some views of rivers, villages, a rice farm development, lots of rain forest and savanna. 

Rice Farm Development

We circled over the Brazilian border, saw the paved divided highway and modern bridge and quickly landed on the airstrip field in Lethem.  The luggage cart was wheeled out into the field and the luggage was hauled by hand to the roadside where it was unloaded.  Nothing fancy! 

 

 We were met by the RDC’s  truck and van. The truck is well packed with essential supplies for the remote ranch.   For example, two flats of eggs were in front of me, the sacks of cassava flour on the truck.  

 

 We quickly set off, hoping to reach the Ranch before dark.  The trip will be about four hours.   The road is a sand road alternated with a dirt road.  We saw the sole bus that travels part way to the Ranch stopped at the ‘Bus Stop’, a place where one can relax in a hammock or use the outdoor facility  The Amerindian Village native structures are fascinating. 

Bus Stop Armenian Style

  

We crossed an area where the wheels are washed for disease control (they call it a dip).

                                                      

In rainy season, one does not travel the road.  Much of the area is flooded.    In previous trips, Yolanda and has travelled across the flooded river by boat with Ranch people meeting them on the other side.  Below you will see a picture of one of the streams in the dry season (it has been extremely dry for three years!).  Note the raft on the other side for crossing during wet season!

 The mountains in the distance are beautiful with the setting sun.  The land looks arid with vegetation sparse.  The 3 ½ trip across the savannah on unpaved roads confirms the dryness and lack of soil fertility.  At times travelling through sand reminded us of driving in heavy snow!

 

We reach the Ranch as it is getting dark.

Dadanawa Ranch Entrance

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Recycling Tires: Resoling Shoes Wum Cameroon

Everyone wins. Jobs are created.  Shoes are restored. Apprentices are trained.  
Orphaned at a young age, mentored by Integrated Development Foundation (IDF), Harry learned the shoe repair trade by being an apprentice.   But prior to that, Harry, again through the caring guidance of IDF and the Orphans and Vulnerable Children's program (OVC), had surgery to correct his deformed legs.  Located in North West Cameroon remote community of Wum,  Harry has his shop in the Market.  Here he is showing Allan a shoe ready to have a new sole put on it.  Notice his leather bag, one that he has handcrafted using his treadle machine and hand tools. 

Harry has taken on two apprentices eager to learn the shoe repair trade, Imagine the dedication required to remove the steel belts from a tire. 

Harry is in the middle with his two apprentices on either side.  

The shoe on the left has a new sole made from a recycled tire.

Here one of the apprentices removes a steel belt from a tire.

Rotary Project Sustainability, Two Years Later

Rotary Project Sustainability, Two Years Later

No one could have predicted results like these after repairing and equipping a two room school in a remote area of the North West Cameroon near Wum (GS Illum).   For starters, the school has nothing but hills around it for miles.  Nestled into these hills are small villages where Boro grazier herdsmen live with their families, their cattle pastured on the surrounding hillside.  With a long zoom lense, one can go across the deep ravine to see the straw topped round huts grouped together.  One can then move the camera to patches of white dots that are the humped back, long horned white cattle, the means by which the herdsmen measure their wealth.  

From villages like this come the children to attend GS Illum School.

2014 March Visit To GS Illum

 It was here two years ago that we found children in deplorable conditions (dust floor harboring ziggar worms, poor lighting, animals wandering into the classroom area at night and defecating, no books but each with a scribbler (required for school admission).  As we look at the situation two years later, we remember one well built building housing three classes with children sitting in crude, parent built desks.  The primary two room building barely fit for animals (this is the one the Rotary Club of Truro choose to repair and equip).   

Two Room School After Repairs

On Tuesday, we first arrived at GS Illum, we were disappointed to find no one there but as often happens, opportunities arise as result.  The small, two room primary structure that the Rotary Club of Truro rebuilt two years ago looks just like it did the day it was opened.  As a result of interest in the school and improved conditions, more children from the surrounding hillsides began coming to school.   The Dept of Education’s view of the school changed.  The Dept designated the school as a teacher placement school for training teachers.  With increased enrollment, the government built a first class two room structure beside the two room primary school that the Rotary Club of Truro repaired.  Dept regulations require classroom sizes to be larger than the two room repaired school (the three classrooms in Befang are also smaller than Dept regulations because they are repaired classrooms, not new builds).   Below is the newly built two room school. .       

 Norbert, our driver,  is carrying supplies for GS Illum from Marian the Librarian

No one is at the school so we look around in amazement.  The school is surrounded by school garden beautifully organized.  Two sports fields are no doubt well used!

Behind the Goal Posts Of the Sports Field, Land is Newly Cultivated

 

 Geography corner with them maps of Cameroon and Africa outlined in rock.   .   

The grounds are beautifully landscaped with the plants all labelled

I peeked into the new two room classrooms and was pleased to see proper benches, teachers’ desk, blackboard, good windows for lighting well built.  Good because many buildings we see built by government are empty because they build and forget to equip them (eg. the hospital in Kumbo is a beautiful building but without equipment of any kind). 

So, the children and teachers must be attending a special day.  We travel to Wum, go to the Dept of Education.  It is locked.  We quickly discover that this is a sports day for the whole area.  We find the sports field where hundreds of school children are gathered.  The area is the size of a big football field.  Hardly any time passed amidst the excitement of the hundreds of children surrounding the field, when Ewi Clementine, Headmistress of GS Illum came running across the chalked racing lanes to greet us.  She didn’t know we were coming!  Two ‘white’ faces in this area turn heads!

Yes, the children are all here.  (Minimum of a five mile walk to the sports grounds from their huts).  The children began arriving to greet us.  Ewi quickly directed us all to the grandstand where opening ceremonies were just underway.  We stood at attention for the raising of the flag on a bamboo pole and the national anthem. 

   

School Spirit Has Really Improved

Field Day At GS Illum

We reviewed our situation.  Students and teachers were going to be all day at the sports event.  We would be in Wum visiting microcredit participants, orphans and vulnerable children.  We have gifts for the children from Marian the Librarian.  Ewi suggested we take the school supplies to her house nearby.  A door of opportunity opened.

Leaving the IDF cameraman at the sports field to make room in the car, we go to Ewi’s newly developing subdivision where she began building her home last year.  Made from mud bricks, as yet not glazed, the design is so appealing.  The front wall of the living room is circular.  Inside she has proudly displayed children’s work in true mentor teacher fashion.  We have a paper from IDF listing all the things Marion the Librarian has sent.  Ewi examines the paper and signs it for Pa Tafrie to return to IDF, IDF will check later at the school to see the materials in place and to be sure they stay at the school.  Ewi’s sister, who lives with her, gets a large bag full of children’s crafts from the school.  A model of a little hut with a grass roof, woven bags, little sandals made of cardboard, beads, crafts made from scrounged materials.  When we returned to the sports field, races were in full swing.  Olivia, another teacher from GS Illum was on hand to greet us.  These are dedicated teachers very appreciative of the changes that have been made at GS Illum to improve their teaching situation. 

Allan was so impressed with the school garden that he gave the Head Mistress packages of seeds for each teacher.  These seeds were a labor of love on his part.  It began with Rotary Club of Truro putting up $300 Canadian dollars for seeds.  We brought seeds in Douala at seed suppliers at the market.  Then, we found a supplier of peanut seeds in Bafoussam  bought corn seeds specific to particular growing conditions related to elevation.  These were the seeds Allan packaged in several hundred individual lots for the farmers in Bana and Befang .  Now he is giving each teacher in the  two schools (GS Illum and Befang) seeds.  They will create a lot of interest in new crops for the area and for the children.  Peanuts, beans, cucumber, melon, corn, eggplant, orka, pumpkin; these seeds will be planted at the beginning of the school term in August when the rains are not so heavy.

We will be getting a report from the progress on the school repair in Befang and the progress of the farm project in Bana and will share that with you.

Meantime, we are enjoying a two week camper van trip in Europe.  We have enjoyed hearing your comments!  For us, a very satisfying adventure.